Screwdriver — one hand tools that should be in the Arsenal of every master. If handled properly it can serve for many years. But when “is” repair, stuff happens, and when falling even from small height he or his battery might get damaged and stop working. And what happened to the tool that was brought to me for repair. In the fall the screwdriver out of order the battery (found out by moving the worker). This problem can be solved on their own, without spending money on a new tool!
The battery cover was secured by four screws. Undoing them, he saw that the jumper (plate) between the battery were just broken.
Jumpers to the batteries, usually welded by spot welding. As such I have no welding, always solder jumper with soldering iron, normal solder.
For repair I need:
- the soldering iron;
With the replacement or repair of torn cans in the first place clean space ration sandpaper. The tinning quality, need to be cleaned as carefully as possible from this will depend on the quality of the brazing which, in turn, will also affect the throughput of the current passing through it.
Next, apply some soldering flux and the puddle space ration of batteries and plates.
A flux is also possible to use rosin (in this case not very convenient), soldering acid (some over time destroy brazing, toxic fumes), aspirin (strong odor when melting). To use the last two ways do not advise home.
In conclusion, observing polarity, solder the disconnected battery in its place and collect the battery.
There is nothing easier than to take in hands a soldering iron and some simple manipulations to solder the battery in place, but not so easy when soldering Nickel-cadmium (Ni-Cad), Nickel metal hydride (Ni-MH), and the like of batteries, there are some nuances. Failure to observe subtleties can lead to the worthlessness of the battery (a sharp drop in capacity) and charger.
If you decide to repair the failed battery, be sure to pay attention to the following points!
The batteries are connected in series, i.e. minus of battery to positive of the next, etc.
Battery polarity is sometimes not indicated in such cases, it is desirable to know its a multimeter (usually a convex and a smaller diameter end plus).
If the device is not, then we need to see how interconnected with other banks and soldered in the same sequence.
Ni-Cad, Ni-MH and similar batteries are very sensitive to high temperature, so the contact of soldering iron with battery should be kept to a minimum! The soldering iron in this case it is better to take more powerful (60 Watts and above) to briefly touch the time to poledit and solder the soldering, but, not having time to warm up the battery body.
Home for tinning and soldering it is better to use flux or rosin.